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BWAHAHAHAHAHHAAA! now THAT was funny!!! it's nothing really. gonna be a PITA but certainly easier than when my friend and I changed out the transmission on my old truck. |
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<------- FAIL!
hate to admit it but i couldn't fix it. the cat's were the wrong part to start off with so we thought, ok well, lets just change the sensors. way in the fk easier said than done. one sensor was right in front and easy to get to but i'll be damned if i could bust it loose. i even put a torch on it twice and still couldn't get it loose. i gave in. said hell with it. i don't want to make it any worse than it already is. so we rode go karts instead. ETA: pics first pic, albeit a little fuzzy you can see the spark plug looking front sensor second pic: torch |
bummer
:( |
But the go karts were awesome! And no trip wasted, I was gonna be here to pick up my stepkids today anyway, and I can return the unusable parts. It was worth a try.
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I think those have a left-hand thread.
(Trouble maker) |
The one thing you need is a left handed monkey wrench.
. (accomplice) . |
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no, that was the first one. this engine, er exhaust system has the manifold and cat's as one piece so to change the cats you in turn have to remove the manifold. there was that front one there, another down stream and i couldn't find the fourth. (1 on each cat then the downstream one + the anonymous one)
i tried going both clockwise and counter. those suckers are on there. 9 years of cooking on hot ass exhaust. i was afraid i was gonna cause more damage than good so i quit |
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Are there two (the picture only shows one) sensors - each one for three cylinders? Of course another two sensors are after catalytic converters. Those would be reporting a failure. A report that implies those 'after' sensors are 100% OK. A torch should be sufficient to remove most 'decade rusted' parts. Especially any oxygen sensor mounted on that stainless steel exhaust pipe. But if overheating due to excessive gasoline, then removing a part (ie oxygen sensor) would be difficult. Implied: catalytic converters damaged and now seized by an engine always dumping excessive gasoline into the converters - as discussed earlier. Diminished (not yet failed) converters may be a symptom of a long existing problem that also caused lower gas mileage. Federal law says an exhaust manifold must not fail for first 100,000 miles. Which is why most pipes are good for less than 200,000 miles. That pipe and cat converters typically do not fail. Says why those parts are so expensive. Parts that don't fail often have highest profit margins. We used to charge a 100% markup. So, if an oxygen sensor is the first (my original question), then doing anything to replace it (soak it repeatedly in WD-40 for 24 hours before using the torch to heat it while using a socket wrench to remove it) is a best shotgun solution. BTW, never saw a reverse threaded oxygen sensor. If reverse threaded, then a shop manual was blunt about that unusual threading. Spending another $25 for the Car Chip Pro would have said much more. But if any part is to be replaced, a most suspect part is probably that 'first' oxygen sensor. Not any sensors after the cat converters. Replacing only that sensor is by far the least expensive of all 'shotgun' options. |
I thought WD-40 was flammable - apparently not?
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It doesn't matter, after you spray and let soak, the flammable component is pretty much gone.
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He was pretty sure of the outcome.
I wouldn't have tried that right next my car :eek: |
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That's exactly what I mean. I also hate starting a job and not finishing it, I'm sure we all do. But I hate it more when I over-reach my abilities and break something and turn a maintenance need into an emergency fix. Recognising when you are at the limits of your abilities and the tools at your disposal is a prime skill. Well done.
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