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Of course that means the cable is loose only to the point that is it disconnecting (partially) with higher temperatures. However, by the time this question was posted, that suspect could have been identified or eliminated. This suspect only discussed to demonstrate how many more reasons could create your symptoms. Suspects are not limited to fuel. Also as likely are problems with the ignition system. Or with a MAP. Significant number of suspects quickly diminish if the problem trips a check engine light. If you cannot, that also diminishes the number of suspects. |
What's the resistance value for "continuity" in a relay? The manual says to check for continuity, but the meter reads 0.9 ohms when I test the meter by touching its leads, and reads 118 ohms when testing the relay's prongs. When I apply battery power to those same prongs, I hear the relay click, and the other set of relay prongs go from no continuity to 0.9 ohms. Seems like it's working, but I'd expect "continuity" to have a far lower value.
By the way, I checked the battery cable, and it felt secure, but I was able to tighten it up considerable. There's a little rubber gasket between the two sides of the clamp, and it barely squeezed before. I tightened it up until the gasket was bulging a bit. Tried to get the check engine light to come on by driving hard, including up a hill. But it's still off. The only thing I've found wrong is the fuel pump doesn't come on for two seconds when key turned to "on." |
Less than .9 ohms. :eek: A fingerprint will give you .9 ohms, that's nothing. Sounds like the relay is cool.
Homeland security saw you were speeding and punished you by sending a signal on skynet for your car to hiccup, you know, just to scare you a little. ;) Sounds like at this point, without throwing a ton of money at it, or making it a possibly fruitless quest, you'll have to wait for a solid failure, or at least less intermittent symptoms. As far as the pump not giving you that two seconds, it doesn't matter as long as it's starting right up when asked. |
Not the right thread, but maybe the car guru's can help me...
Each year I spray our metal heat register covers with a "refresh" coat of black paint. This year, I used a can from last year. The problem: The paint on two covers are still sticky after overnight "drying" in the house. The paint does not transfer to my hand or paper, but I'm concerned that walking on the register may end up tracking paint onto the floors. Any suggestions for hardening the paint now instead of later ? |
Hair dryer? Coat o' clear?
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Will it fit in the oven? A gas oven can be moist at low temps, but an electric would be good. Set it for 175
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Thanks Griff and Glatt.
I tried the oven thing overnight and things are much improved ... still a little tacky, but it looks like it will be OK after the house heat has been on for a while. |
Same issue with the car today for about 10 minutes. Then it got better.
Never stalled, but almost did. |
Fuel.
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It's so bizarre that it's intermittent. It's running perfectly now. If I took it to a mechanic, I wouldn't be able to show them the problem.
My first thought was a dirty fuel filter, but I wouldn't expect that to get better. |
You could show someone familiar with that type of car the video clip. They may have previous experience with that syndrome, or at least a clue where to look.
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Seriously, why not just SHOTGUN the situation and replace the fuel filter? (you're welcome tw). Worst case, you have a new filter and twenty fewer bucks. Or, it could fix or ameliorate the symptoms. Plus tw will berate you. |
Ok. I have obtained a fuel filter. And I should have time tomorrow afternoon to install it. We need an oil change too, so I'll do that at the same time.
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Quick, put on your safety glasses.
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