I have just landed a new job!
Starting in early January, I will be a part-time (but continuing) associate lecturer at a real university, as an "academic skills advisor".
I will be teaching research and researching teaching.
The environment should be much better; socially, academically, even geographically.
The pay rate is much the same, but since I will be half-time I will take a substantial cut in income (although I will be paying much less tax). I will be fine financially, and will probably be able to go to full time in a year or so if I want.
I am jumping off the top rung of one ladder onto the bottom rung of another, much taller ladder.