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That's part of its charm, actually, in that you can ignore the "main goal" completely for months and it won't affect your gameplay one bit. It's quite a difference from typical RPGs, most of which severely restrict your travel range, weapons, armor and skills based on what main-quest tasks you've accomplished. (You know, the usual "can't get by the river unless the dam gate is closed, but the king won't do that unless we rescue his daughter, and we can't do that until we find the Amulet of Guacamole, which means we need to visit the Dungeon of Bile and collect the six pieces of the Amulet Locator" convoluted-requirement plotline.) In Morrowind, 99% of the gaming world is open on day 1.
The main quest itself is actually rather straightforward, if you keep at it -- it takes a handful of missions for you to get a decent idea of what your real goal is, but by then you're knee-deep in it. You can end up joining every guild and group there is for tons of side quests, and there are plenty of unaffiliated one-off quests as well.
Now if it just wouldn't crash so often...
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